The Perche has a market almost every day of the week. The trick is knowing which one, where, and what to look for when you get there.

We have been going to these markets for years now and each one has its own character. Some are serious food markets where you fill a basket for the week. Others are more of a social event with coffee and a crêpe. Here is what we know.

The Weekly Market Calendar

A quick overview before we get into the details:

Monday: Mamers

Mamers sits at the southern edge of the Perche, already in the Sarthe department, and its Monday market is a proper one. The stalls line up around the Place de la République and spill into the surrounding streets.

This is where you find rillettes. The Sarthe is rillettes country and the charcutiers here take it seriously. Pick up a pot, some bread from one of the bakers, and you have lunch sorted.

The market also has a good selection of produce, fish, cheese, and the usual clothing and household stalls. It is big enough to spend an hour walking around but not so big that it feels like a chore.

When: Monday morning, usually wrapping up around 12:30.
Where: Place de la République, Mamers.
Go for: Rillettes, charcuterie, a solid general food shop.

Tuesday: Longny-les-Villages

A small market in a small town. Longny (formerly Longny-au-Perche) has a handful of stalls in the centre on Tuesday mornings. It is not worth a special trip unless you are already in the area, but if you are, it is a pleasant stop.

When: Tuesday morning.
Where: Town centre, Longny-les-Villages.
Go for: A few stalls, local atmosphere.

Wednesday: Rémalard-en-Perche

The Wednesday market in Rémalard is a nice midweek option. A handful of producers set up around the Place de l'Église with local cheese, bread, vegetables, and charcuterie.

If you are in the area, combine it with lunch. Rémalard is also home to D'une île, the restaurant opened by the team behind Septime and Clamato in Paris. It is a different kind of Perche experience but worth knowing about.

When: Wednesday morning.
Where: Town centre, Rémalard-en-Perche.
Go for: Midweek produce run, local cheese.

Thursday: Bellême

This is our local market and we rarely miss it. Bellême's Thursday market has been running since the Middle Ages, which sounds like a tourism brochure line but happens to be true. The stalls set up in the town's central square, surrounded by stone buildings and the old fortified gateway.

It is not huge, maybe 20 to 40 stalls depending on the season, but the quality is good. There is a goat cheese stall we always stop at, a couple of excellent vegetable producers, a rotisserie chicken van, bread, honey, flowers, and some clothing and household stalls around the edges.

Thursday is also a good day to browse Bellême's permanent antique shops, several of which keep Thursday hours. So you can do the market in the morning and then wander into the brocantes.

When: Thursday morning, usually done by 12:30.
Where: Place de la République, Bellême.
Go for: Goat cheese, produce, rotisserie chicken. Combine with antique shopping.

Friday: Senonches

Senonches is on the Eure-et-Loir side of the Perche, near the Forêt de Senonches. Its Friday morning market is small to medium sized with a decent selection of producers.

The town itself is worth a look, there is a castle in the centre and the forest is excellent for walking. A Friday market trip followed by a walk in the woods is a good combination.

When: Friday morning.
Where: Town centre, Senonches.
Go for: Produce, a quiet start to the weekend.

Saturday: Mortagne-au-Perche

If you go to one market in the Perche, make it Mortagne on a Saturday.

The market fills the Place du Général de Gaulle and the surrounding streets. It is the best food market in the area. Multiple charcutiers selling boudin noir (Mortagne is the self-proclaimed capital), excellent cheese stalls, fish, produce, cider, Calvados, bread, and more.

Mortagne itself is a beautiful old walled town on a hilltop with ramparts you can walk along. So the combination of the market and the town makes it a proper Saturday morning out.

Get there by 9 if you want the best selection. By 11 the good stuff starts running out. By 12:30 they are packing up.

When: Saturday morning, 8ish to 12:30.
Where: Place du Général de Gaulle, Mortagne-au-Perche.
Go for: Boudin noir, cheese, cider, fish. The best food market in the Perche.

Saturday: Nogent-le-Rotrou

Also on Saturday but bigger and more of a town market than a food market. Nogent-le-Rotrou is the largest town in the broader Perche area and its market reflects that: 80 to 120 stalls with everything from produce and cheese to clothing, plants, tools, and household goods.

It is more of a general shopping experience than a food pilgrimage. The town has a medieval castle (Château des Comtes du Perche) overlooking everything, which adds to the setting.

If you are choosing between Mortagne and Nogent on a Saturday morning, Mortagne wins for food. Nogent wins for size and variety.

When: Saturday morning.
Where: Place de la République area, Nogent-le-Rotrou.
Go for: General market shopping, size and variety.

What to Buy at Perche Markets

Wherever you go, keep an eye out for these regional specialties:

Boudin noir — Black pudding, and Mortagne is the place for it. Some stalls sell it plain, others with apples, Calvados, or Camembert mixed in. Try it grilled at home with a mound of mashed potato.

Goat cheese — Several small producers sell at markets across the Perche. The fresh ones are mild and creamy. The aged ones have more bite.

Cider and poiré — The Perche has its own cider terroir, different from the Pays d'Auge to the west. Look for fermier (farmstead) bottles. Poiré is the pear version and just as good.

Calvados — Apple brandy. The producers at markets will let you taste before you buy.

Honey — The forests of the Perche support a lot of beekeepers. Forest honey is darker and more complex than the wildflower variety.

Rotisserie chicken — Not unique to the Perche but the market rotisserie vans are a French institution. Get one with the potatoes cooked in the drippings underneath.

Tips for Market Shopping in Le Perche

Bring cash. Most market stalls do not take cards. Some of the bigger ones do now but do not count on it.

Bring bags. Some stalls provide them, many do not.

Go early. The best produce and the best cheese go first. Especially at Mortagne on Saturday.

Talk to the producers. Even with limited French, pointing and smiling goes a long way. Most vendors are happy to let you taste cheese or charcuterie before buying.

Check seasonal specials. Spring brings asparagus and strawberries. Summer means tomatoes and stone fruit. Autumn is apples, pears, and mushrooms. Winter brings root vegetables and game.

Beyond the Weekly Markets

The Perche also hosts dozens of special markets throughout the year:

Marchés de producteurs — Summer evening producer markets pop up in towns like Bellême and Mortagne during July and August. Local producers sell and cook their own products. Bring a plate and a glass.

Marché de Noël — Christmas markets appear in Bellême, Mortagne, Nogent-le-Rotrou, and La Perrière in December.

Foire aux Champignons de Bellême — The famous mushroom fair in late September or early October, running since 1952. Not a weekly market but an annual institution.

Foire au Boudin de Mortagne — The international black pudding festival, third weekend of March. Over 25,000 visitors and five kilometres of boudin consumed. It is exactly as intense as it sounds.

We cover all of these on our events calendar.

FAQ

What day is the market in Bellême?

Thursday morning, in the Place de la République. It usually runs from around 8am to 12:30pm.

What is the best market in Le Perche?

Mortagne-au-Perche on Saturday morning. It has the best food selection, particularly for boudin noir, cheese, and cider.

Do French markets take credit cards?

Some larger stalls now accept cards, but most market vendors in Le Perche still prefer cash. Bring euros.

What time do French markets start?

Most markets in Le Perche set up from around 8am and pack up by 12:30pm. The earlier you go, the better the selection.

What food is Le Perche known for?

Boudin noir (black pudding), Normandy cheeses, cider, poiré (perry), Calvados, honey, and seasonal mushrooms from the Bellême forest.